HUNTING EQUIPMENT INTRODUCTION

This year will go on your calendar as the year you decided to plunge into the world of waterfowling. You dream of being in the field to watch the fall migrations. You want to experience the challenge of the hunt—to start your own hunting traditions. You want to do it your way. Now, what equipment will you need to get started?

Working in the Virtual Reality world, we've created Robbie, a new hunter who needs to be outfitted for the upcoming waterfowl season. Following are suggestions to help you prepare for waterfowling excursions as well:

Guns
If Robbie could borrow a gun, that might be the very first step rather than putting out money before knowing if he's hooked on hunting.

Consider using a 12 gauge pump, as any novice should stay away from the more complicated and dangerous automatics.

When Robbie is ready to purchase a gun, he should buy it at a retail store where he can talk, one on one, to a salesperson who has knowledge of waterfowling and guns. The salesperson should be aware of fit, recoil, and proper stance when shooting.

Gun Cases
Now that a gun has been purchased, Robbie will need a case to protect it during transportation. Either a hard or soft case will do. He must remember that if his gun is wet and kept in a case overnight in a warm room, the gun will rust. Any gun should be cleaned at the end of every hunt.

A gun sleeve is a good investment at a small price. A sleeve protects the gun from moisture, dirt, and mud when it is being carried by foot or ATV to the hunting site.

Ammunition
1-1/4 ounce of No. 2 steel is the best all around load for ducks. Many hunters are also using a 1-1/8 ounce load, which has a velocity of 1450 fps—a lighter load of shot but much faster. Robbie also has to remember that when the wind is blowing, he should go to No. 1's, a heavier shot. For geese, stick to BBs, BBBs, or Ts.

Waders and Hip Boots
Overall, waders can be more useful than hip boots for a beginning waterfowler. Waders can be used in more situations than hip boots. And vinyl is the best way to go. Vinyl is cheaper than the newer fashioned neoprene and is more abrasion resistant. It is looser, which allows more air circulation, and this provides more comfort in warm October weather. A pair of suspenders will be needed to hold up the waders.

Waterfowlers often buy two pairs of waders. For the early season they go with vinyl, and for the colder months they switch to neoprene, which is kinder to the body in freezing weather. Neoprene waders fit very well, and they get away from the feel of wearing a heavy vinyl bag.

Robbie must select either stocking foot or boot foot waders. Both have advantages. With new advances in technology, weight is not much of a consideration. If the beginner goes for the boot foot, the one disadvantage is that sometimes when walking in thick mud a person's heel may pull out of the wader, causing imbalance. With stocking-foot waders, Robbie will have to purchase a good boot to go over the wader foot—another piece of gear to think about.

Clothing
A hunter usually dresses warmly in the morning, but midday heat can make hunting uncomfortable. Waterfowlers have to use the "shed" theory. Robbie should think about wearing a T-shirt, a chamois shirt, and a down vest. When the day heats up, off comes the vest—but what does he do with it? A new hunter should invest in a good waterfowl shell bag. This is where the vest can be stored. In a shell bag, consider carrying pliers, gun oil, duck calls, ammunition, and excess clothing when shedding layers. Clothing can also be hung on a hook in the blind and be out of the way.

The most popular waterfowling jacket is called a "4 in 1." It is a short jacket that comes just to the waist, as opposed to a parka, which would cover the butt. This short jacket can be tucked inside the waders to keep Robbie dry. It also has a zip-out lining, which is removed when hunting in mild weather and zipped back in when the temperature turns cold. The next layer is made of Gortex, which waterproofs the jacket; this is topped by a synthetic layer that makes the jacket resistant to wear and tear.

Cheaper-priced jackets will last two to three years. They will need to be sprayed with waterproofing material when cleaned. More expensive jackets will last a minimum of five to six years. To clean clothing with Gortex, follow the instructions included with the garments.

Most hunters wear the baseball-type cap when waterfowling. Ideally, get a cap with a long bill. The bill helps out two ways: it hides the face, and it also hides glasses if worn by the hunter. A camouflage pattern cap helps even further.

Decoys
A couple dozen decoys will work for any hunter. These should be mallards, standard size. Robbie will need a decoy bag to carry the blocks; he can also use the bag to store lunch, excess clothing, and other gear.

If two dozen decoys sounds too cumbersome, consider using battery-operated decoys; three would be enough. These are lightweight decoys that run on D cell batteries which last all day. These decoys swim around and flap their wings. They're expensive, but if Robbie decides against waterfowling, he should have no trouble selling either the two dozen mallard decoys or the three motion decoys.

Duck Calls
When getting started, consider purchasing a machine-made duck call as opposed to a custom call. A double reed call is easier to use and sounds more like a duck. Eating when calling is a no-no; some particles could get lodged in the reed assembly and change the sound. A lanyard is essential so he can find the call quickly; some calls come with a lanyard. When buying the call, also pick up a duck calling video and audio tape to learn how to call properly.

Getting a quick reference guide to identification of waterfowl is a must since the legal limits differ between species. Studying this guide before going into the field will help on the actual hunting day.

Camouflage
If this new hunter is worried about being seen by ducks, he should stand quietly in some kind of cover like tules because movement will give a hunter's presence away more often than any other factor. He can also buy some camouflage netting, which comes in a variety of patterns and is fairly cheap. Also, portable blinds are available that weigh about 35 pounds; when walking, he stows his gear in the blind, and it is towed behind him.

A newcomer needs to remember that the face is very visible to passing ducks. Robbie might want to bypass a face mask since it is hot to wear except in freezing weather. Even the stocking-type face mask with a couple holes cut for the eyes is not very practical because it makes calling difficult. A better bet is to buy two or three colors of camouflage makeup—try green, brown, and black—to cover the face. Or get some charcoal and darken a few spots on the face.

Stools
A good product for a freelance hunter would be a marsh stool. There are several on the market that will stick in the ground and support a hunter sitting on a rotating seat. The stool should be lightweight and made of steel, aluminum, or PVC, which makes it almost indestructible. A stool should also have a shoulder carry strap for easy transportation. This would provide a hunter with a sturdy base from which to hunt.

Dogs:
Although a new hunter would be foolish to purchase a dog for the first few waterfowl hunts, he must realize that a well-trained dog is a necessary part of different kinds of hunting. So when the time is right, this hunter must decide what his primary type of hunting will be. If it's just upland, he should go with a pointing breed; if he wants to combine upland and waterfowl hunting, a retrieving breed should be considered, with the Labrador the most practical and easiest to care for due to the short coat. His best bet is to hunt with others who have a variety of breeds; in this way, he can effectively "test drive" different breeds before deciding on the one best suited to his personal needs.

Now your new hunter must decide on a puppy versus a trained dog. In the long run, buying an older, already trained dog may be cheaper. A puppy will require patience, training, and veterinary expenses. Regardless, a person should buy the best dog he can afford. A dog is not just a piece of equipment; it is a gifted hunting companion that will find and retrieve downed birds that the hunter would have otherwise lost. Your hunter must remember not to make impulse decisions and should research the subject until a breeder is found who has a good line of the selected breed of dog. He must also keep in mind that he is going to live with this dog for at least 10 years, thus making this decision of prime importance to himself, as well as the other members of his family.

Thanks go to the following individuals for their assistance with this article: Tim Carey, Chris Fulster, Darrel Odland, Ernie Brown, Jason Swan, Stirling Fligge, Jerry Jones, and Debra Folsom.